, 2008


Aboard the Miss Ann
for the last goodbye

by Reid Pierce Armstrong

IRVINGTON—As the Miss Ann pulled up to the Tides Inn pier September 7 with seeming effortlessness, it marked the last time the ship will regularly make port on Carter’s Creek.

The luxury yacht, which has called the Tides Inn home for more than 50 years, is bound Sunday for her new berth in Colonial Beach.

On board to celebrate the ship’s final brunch cruise were some people who had taken the journey down the Rappahannock River many times and some who were running their hands across the Miss Ann’s fine woodwork for the first time.

All were aware that, on that day, they were becoming part of the rich history of this much-loved boat.

John H. French of Detroit commissioned the custom yacht as a gift for his wife in 1924. Upon its completion in 1926, it was among the fastest and most stable boats of its kind. But, one rough trip out on the lake was enough to turn his wife, Elise, off boating forever. After being tossed about a bit, she demanded to be taken to shore and never boarded the boat again.

It sat unused for years until it was conscripted into the U.S. Navy in 1941 for service in World War II.

In 1952, Ennolls Stephens brought the ship out of mothballs and had her restored to her former beauty. Four years later, she was brought to the Tides Inn.

The Miss Ann was used to entertain hotel guests and soon began making trips between Carter’s Creek and Urbanna, nicknamed “Whiskey Runs” since Lancaster County was dry at the time the ABC store in Urbanna was within strolling distance once the Miss Ann docked there.

Daily cruises have continued to attract passengers, and the Miss Ann is now on the National Register of Historical Places and the Virginia Historical Register.

In recent years, the Miss Ann has made regular Saturday runs to Urbanna and Sunday “brunch cruises” to Merry Point in addition to special trips for weddings and other special occasions.

The Miss Ann’s passengers last weekend took some time to reflect on her legacy.

“I wanted to be a part of the history,” said Patsy Marshall Tutt, who lives on the Corrotoman River and has watched the Miss Ann go back and forth in front of her house every Saturday.

“Whatever you are doing that day, gardening or whatever, you stop and pause when the Miss Ann goes by, in reverence.”

Patsy’s first cruise aboard the Miss Ann would also be her last.

“It’s very bittersweet,” she said.

Sandra Treakle grew up on Carter’s Creek and watched the Tides Inn being built.

“People didn’t think it would go,” she recalls of the resort.

Sandra remembers when the Miss Ann came to the Tides in 1956.

“I was quite young,” she said. “I wanted to be on the last cruise.”

Her husband surprised her with the trip on Sunday.

While some people were aware of the history being made that day when they booked their tickets, others just stumbled upon it:

“We didn’t know its going to be the last cruise until we bought our tickets,” said Roy and Bonnie Norton of Hartfield and Bernard and Debra Farrar of Cobbs Creek.

This is the first time they’d taken the cruise.

“We just wanted the experience,” they said.

Lyn Hutchens and her daughter, Marian, of Newport News have been vacationing at the Tides Inn for 29 years. Over the years they have taken many cruises on the Miss Ann.

“I didn’t know until yesterday afternoon that it would be the last cruise. We had to go, so I stayed an extra day to do this.”

For some, the cruise holds fond personal memories.

J.W. and Kay Walker of Indian Creek were married on the Miss Ann December 18, 2004.

“We are absolutely sad,” J.W. said. “This was the site of our wedding.”

The couple took a moment to stand in the very spot where they spoke their vows.

Carlyn and Guy St. John of Chesapeake were married at the Tides Inn August 29, 1996, and went on a Miss Ann cruise the next day. They have made annual anniversary visits to the Tides Inn and sailed on the Miss Ann every year since.

“Wouldn’t want to miss this,” Carlyn said as the Miss Ann pulled away from the dock. “I hate to see it go.”

“They are losing a treasure with this ship,” Guy said.

Some passengers just wanted to take one last chance to get a look at the river from the Miss Ann’s high decks.

“I wanted them to see everything by water,” said Melanie Maguire, whose parents will soon move to Rappahannock Westminster-Canterbury in Irvington. Melanie and her husband live on Indian Creek and have been on the Miss Ann about five times.

“We use it as a great thing to do when we have company,” she said.

Diane and Dick Donovan of Heathsville were taking their first brunch cruise. They came specifically because it was the last day.

“It will be interesting to see what happens with this ship,” Dick said.

New owners Frank and Guy Schroff have plans to run private charters out of Colonial Beach for a few months, before dry docking the Miss Ann at Ampro in Weems for a complete overhaul this winter.

Ultimately, the Miss Ann is headed to Washington, D.C.

The crew has been invited to accompany her in her future ventures, but it’s a difficult decision for these longtime employees of the Tides Inn and lifetime residents of the Northern Neck.

Bill Smith grew up in Lewisetta and has been working at the Tides Inn for 56 years, climbing his way up from bus boy to waiter and finally to purser on the Miss Ann. His wife and daughter-in-law both work for the Tides Inn.

For him, the sale of the Miss Ann is like a death in the family.

“It’s like being married and one of you passes away,” he said.

He’s going to go up with the boat to Colonial Beach for a few weeks to see how it goes. Although he’s been invited to stay with the boat for as long as he likes, he isn’t sure about the future.

“I don’t want to leave the Tides,” he said. “I just want to keep on doing what I’m doing. But, everything comes to an end. Eventually we either have to retire or die.”

As purser, Bill’s job is to tell the story of the Miss Ann.

“It’s a love affair” he said.

He and Capt. Clarence Smith have been friends for their whole lives. Capt. Clarence grew up near Bill in Cowart, and Bill got Clarence his first job at the Tides Inn. The men married sisters and have been inseparable all these years.

With 108 years of experience between them, they say they are sticking together.

One’s not going to Colonial Beach without the other.

“It’s been a great opportunity to serve on this vessel,” Capt. Clarence said. “There have been good times and bad times. The good times are on the morning cruises down the Rappahannock with a 10 knot breeze across the bow when you just want to open the doors of the pilot house and enjoy the weather. The not so good times are when you are docking at night with a 30 knot wind blowing across the creek holding you off and you have to fight to get in. “

September 7, 2008, was one of those perfect days, with azure skies and a nice breeze. As Capt. Clarence docked the Miss Ann for the last time, the passengers never even felt the rail touch the bumpers. It was about as perfect of a landing as one can make in a 126-foot yacht, creaking with history.

It was a beautiful day to say goodbye.



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